ROTI

* Cuisine: American
* Where: Roppongi
* Tel: 03 5413 3654
* English Menu: Yes
* Cost: 7,000 per head (without wine)
* Ohishi: Onion Rings
* Ordered: Lamb chops, Ribs, Fries, Charcuterie
* Rating: ---

The new kid on the mega-block, Tokyo Midtown boasts the city’s highest tower but up close it seems not to rise as high as Roppongi Hills’ or even the metropolitan buildings in Shinjuku. Inside, the architecture is bland and the ambience rather soulless. Unfortunately the setting proved rather fitting for Roti. There’s clearly been much thought into the décor, presentation and menu but the sum of the parts somehow don’t add up to a satisfiying whole. The décor is the same dark woods and off-whites that every new ‘classy’ restaurant opts for. Presumably with Midtown rents to cover, customers are packed in together. The small space is split into a wine bar and brasserie when it’s not really big enough for one of either and the overall ambience is as much Tokyo station as it is Tribeca. As for the food, portion size is adequate and service fine but at these prices that should be expected. Side dishes were imaginatively presented and generously proportioned but the entrees less impressive: the lamb rather fatty and its wine and pepper sauce rather weak, the ribs as soft as confit and on the wrong side of bland. The wine list is long and varied and full of quality (at 6,500 to 34,000 with most in the 8-13,000 range) and more than usual available by the carafe. At these prices Roti is certainly not a venue for a casual dinner but neither is it likely to impress a date or a client. The speciality is rotisserie chicken and perhaps that would have been the better choice (had we not had chicken for lunch). Perhaps a visit to the sister restaurant would be worth a shot, this one was unfortunately as uninspired as its building.